Fins to the Left, Fins to the Right: Babies Playing in Shark Infested Waters

How could we possibly top seeing pink flamingos in the wild? Seeing a bunch of baby sharks in a feeding frenzy, of course. Duh.

Our beautiful friend, Jayde, who has been working term charters down here for several years now and is very much 'in the know' when it comes to off-the-beaten-track adventures, wrote us immediately when she heard we were in Anegada. "It's shark breeding season right now, and you are guaranteed to see loads of baby sharks this time of year..." she went on to tell me where to find them, and punctuated what a unique and cool experience it would to be. I took the bait; hook, line and sinker. We were going shark sighting.

The secret spot where the sharks were promised to be was reportedly "very far" from the dinghy dock, so we inquired about a taxi. After quoting us a price of $12 per adult (there were four of us) and $6 per child (five of them) - we decided, literally, to take a hike.

We started walking, forlorn at the prospect of having to abort our shark excursion when an open safari-style vehicle rolled up, asking us where we were headed. If there is one advantage to traveling with children, particularly very small children, it's that hitchhiking is a breeze. Who can turn down two families with five (very adorable) small girls between them? The dreadlocked driver started giving us directions to the area where we might see the sharks when he paused mid sentence, suddenly taking in all of girls... a pitiful smile came across his face and, slightly defeated, he motioned with a chuckle, "Come on in, I'll take you". We were all very grateful for this gesture, as the distance we covered by car would have easily taken us an hour with all the kiddos in tow. When we arrived at our destination (seemingly in the middle of nowhere) we hopped out of his truck, each family giving him a $5 bill and a heart-felt 'thank you', as he waved us off with a smile.

We found ourselves on a concrete bridge overlooking a very active salt pond and a small estuary. Frigates and pelicans were having a field day in the sky above us, dive-bombing the water with torpedo precision and coming up with great gulps, tiny fish zipped around under the water in schools, while soldier crabs tip-toed along the shore. A few dead minnows floated by in the current, easy picking for the more vulturous birds in the area. We kept walking, keeping our eyes on the lookout for fins, when - at the shoreline in water only calf deep - we found them.

It took a while to see them as the water was murky and shallow, but they were there, their predatory silhouettes unmistakable. The baby sharks, only about 2-3 feet long, were darting about this way and that with lightning speed and precision, honing their hunting skills before heading out into the open ocean. Occasionally you'd see a dorsal fin or an angry splash, but then they'd disappear. "There's one!" someone would yell, but before you could get an eyeball on them - they'd be gone. "I see one! Over there!" but you'd turn your head, and you'd catch a glimpse of a diminishing tail. I was amazed to watch them in action - these super-predators in training - they were remarkably fast and incredibly stealthy. But once our eyes adjusted and we knew what we were looking for, we saw them en masse.

Try as we might we couldn't lure them closer to shore get a good picture when Eben got the brilliant idea to collect a few of the dead fish we'd seen in the estuary to feed them. We threw a few minnows near our feet and waited. Sure enough, our little sharks came like puppies to treats. The girls were having a field day, splashing the water with their hands on the surface, "Here, sharky sharky".

After about an hour we started the trek home, this time walking along the shoreline to explore a bit more, when our twins made it clear they needed dinner - stat. We headed back up to the road, hoping for a ride, when another safari taxi drove by just in the nick of time. They stopped, we hopped in, and for another $5 per family, we had ourselves a ride back to the beach bar where the adults spent our saved taxi money on rum punches, and the kiddos ran amok like the little island heathens they are.

Can't you feel 'em circlin' honey?

Can't you feel 'em swimmin' around?

You got fins to the left, fins to the right,

and you're the only bait in town.

You got fins to the left, fins to the right,

and you're the only baby in town.

- Jimmy Buffett

The salt pond and small estuary to the ocean. 

Exploring the little salt pond. Lots to see in these waters if you look close!

Sea birds everywhere, that murky water is where all the sharks were.

The shark in the foreground here had just snatched up a dead fish that Eben fed it.

Believe it or not, there were probably five or six sharks in this shot, the murky water however makes them invisible.

Mira, our newly minted walker, chilling on the sea wall, watching sharks go by.

Haven's all, "I'm not scared!" She is a total fish and wants to swim NO MATTER WHAT (we didn't let her)

Fins to the left and fins to the right!

Arias calling, "Here, sharky, sharky!" See the shark? Look closely!

Mira and Isla, shark spotting.

Haven happily playing on shore as a baby shark lurks in the background.

See that little fin?

Flamingos....Found.

Suffice it to say they found the "pink reef" referenced in my earlier post. The twins and I missed the excursion because of their morning nap, which was probably a blessing in disguise as the seven mile dinghy ride was not only very long, but very bumpy. Not easily swayed by some wind chop, our intrepid troop persevered - keeping a sharp lookout for the requisite pink tinge on the horizon - and sure enough they found it. The girls got to see real, live pink flamingos in the wild and I'm told it was well worth the trip (and achey backs). So far, Anegada has not disappointed.

Another logbook-style note for those of you who might head this way: the Anegada Beach Club is well worth a visit. We've now spent two full afternoons there. Not only are their happy hour prices hard to beat (two for one rum punch and painkillers!), but there's a ton of fun for the kids too. Hammocks are strewn throughout the property, a volleyball court is ready for play, a small fresh water pool beckons from the beach bar, and just over the dune is a spectacular ocean-side beach with super inviting tented rooms overlooking the ocean (for a cost!). There's a great restaurant on the premise serving everything from pizza to their trademark,the BLLT (that extra "L" is for lobster!), and the vibe is chill and casual. It's a great place where three or four hours can easily be wiled away. 

We took the free taxi (a pick up truck with seats in the back that reads: Anegada Beach Club) from the Lobster Trap restaurant which makes the excursion all the more inviting. If you head over that way tell Eugene, the driver, we sent you. He's a fantastic and super accommodating gentleman. Just remind him of all the babies in the back of his truck, he'll remember us for sure. Kind of hard to forget five girls five and under.

This afternoon's exploration agenda? To see the shark breeding grounds over by the Windless Bight...keep an eye on Facebook for pictures!

These cuties were on the lookout - and they found them! 

They couldn't get much closer than this. The pretty birds were a bit skittish.

A nice view from Cow Wreck Bay where we spent a (sargosso filled) hour or so.

No shortage of fun and action here! Anegada Beach Club pool. The bar is a convenient few steps away.

Another view from Cow Wreck Bay

On the way home in the pick up truck

Quote from Eben: "If people think we're reckless with our kids on boats, they should see us in vehicles!" Haven, feeling the wind in her hair. So begins a love of convertibles??

Babies in 'The Baths' and Ahoy from Anegada!

Plopping our little ones into the water from the dinghy, one after one like little ducklings, must have looked a bit strange. The beach was a good soccer field's length away, and 'swimming in' with three children who cannot actually swim, to some, might have looked foolish. Not to mention the fact that the water was a bit choppy and the current stronger than expected...But we are nothing if not a bit 'adventurous' in our parenting, and so swim-in we did, turning many a head along the way. "Wow, you guys are gutsy parents!" was the refrain we heard over and over from fellow visitors. And while it did take a little extra effort and work to get there, it was so worth it.

"The Baths", as this area is known, encompass the rocky shoreline at the southwestern tip of Virgin Gorda, and are a collection of massive granite boulders as large as sedans (some as big as semi trucks), with white sand beaches and secret tidal pools within. They are a "must" stop on any BVI itinerary. With children in tow, even more so. Scott and I have visited this famous geological phenomenon reminiscent of Goonies three times before, but never has it been so fun as with our girls. The dramatic and spectacular landscape notwithstanding; the giant boulders, caves and shallow pools create an incredible natural playground for children. It was so fun to set our little ones free to climb, splash and explore in this amazing place. We could have stayed all day long.

Because the anchorage is a bit exposed causing it to be choppy at best, it is only a day stop with a ninety minute time limit on the mooring balls. As such, after a couple hours of exploration we were back on our way to North Sound, where we - along with our buddies on Necesse - would stage for Anegada.

Dun, dun, dun.

"Stage" is the word used by cruisers to describe the period of preparation before a passage. To call any sail between these islands a "passage" is laughable, but being that Anegada is more remote than the other islands around here and out of the protection and lee of their shores, the sail to Anegada can incite a bit of anxiety. Despite it's relatively close proximity (it's only a three to four hour sail from North Sound), it still carries the lure and feeling of a new and distant landfall, and the sail can be rough for those of us who've grown soft on ocean waves and swell due to the protected waters of the BVI's.

Furthermore, Anegada has a distinctly different feel than the rest of the islands around here. For one, it's less crowded. For whatever reason, many of the charter boats are either a) not allowed to sail here or b) must get special permission to do so. As a result, Anegada has a more "sleepy" feel than the other islands. It's also unique from the other British Virgin Islands in that it is flat, flat, flat. So linear is the topography, in fact, that despite being only twelve miles from the nearest landmass, you cannot see it until you are practically on top of it, about three miles away. If I didn't know any better, I'd have thought we'd sailed ourselves right back to the Bahamas as this island would feel much more at home in the Exumas than here in the bustling, and undulating, BVI's.

Either way, we are very happy to be here. The girls heard a rumor of resident pink flamingos so our first order of business is finding those. We are told to look for the "pink reef", that it can't be missed...

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Fun at the Saba Rock Tarpon feeding show!

This is how our kiddos roll, island style.

The beach at the Anegada Beach Club where we spent an afternoon of volleyball, hammock lounging and fun.