Rest & Relaxation

This is our room at the Chateau de Francis...

That is to say, this is our room in the lovely home of our friends, Karly and Jason. We met Karly and Jason on the Windjammer cruise we took a few weeks back, and the four of us became fast friends.  In fact, we got along with them so well it sort of felt like we've known them forever.  I guess that's why it wasn't so strange that (after knowing us for a week) they invited us to stay with them in their beautiful home in Trinidad for two weeks while Scott works here in the boatyard.  Grateful doesn't begin to describe it.

So this is my lair while they are all off working - I can chill out in here, listen to the birds chirping, feel the sun through the windows and read, work, write and relax.  Of course I am welcome to the rest of the house, but this room is just so perfect and calming, I enjoy it the most.

Love,
Brittany & Scott

Top 10 Tuesdays: Top 10 Things That Drive Us Mental

Scott, going 'mental'.  Not really, but it looks like it.

The thing that makes me laugh the hardest about our lifestyle is this overwhelming insistance 'outsiders' have on calling what we do a "permanent vacation"...
Sure, we live on a boat in the Caribbean.  Sure, we don't work for the 'man' in a cubicle that measures 3x4 (though we do, actually, work) and yes, we can do things like go to the beach, snorkel and swim in the ocean daily.  BUT (and this is a big BUT) , I would wager to bet that 80% of you who call what we do a "permanent vacation" and think of it as such, would be sorely disappointed by how little our life resembles, say, a week of R&R at a beach-side bungalow in St. Barths (ah, that would be nice).  Furthermore, I would wager that an equal number of you (after seeing how we "really" live) could not be paid to live the way we do.

Don't get me wrong - we LOVE it (otherwise we wouldn't be doing it) - but this 'lifestyle' is no walk in the park, and it most certainly is not a permanent vacation. Different lifestyle, yes.  But vacation?  Not at all.  For some reason, when someone says they live in the Caribbean, all problems are assumed null and void.  If I even hint at having a bad day, I am barraged with responses like, "But you live in the Caribbean, what could possibly be so bad?!?!"  Well, I am here to tell you that it ain't always paradise in paradise...

So - in an effort to "keep it real" and not show you everything through rose-colored glasses, here are the

Top 10 Things that (can) Drive us Mental as Live-Aboard's

1. Flies and mosquitos.  At the moment, they are everywhere (it's the rainy season here).  There is nothing, nothing more annoying than drifting off to sleep only to hear the telltale buzzing of a mosquito that you know is going to be at you all night unless you kill it.  I have become the master mosquito killer of our duo.  Today, on the way to the bathroom (which is one small step for man, one giant swat for winged insects), I killed three blood-filled mosquitos and missed about 3 others.  The clincher? Yesterday, I killed a fly - a disgustingly huge fly - that was buzzing around my head while I was reading.  I grabbed the swatter and when I squished it, it busted open to expose hundreds of tiny, squirming maggots inside it.  I cannot make this up people.  It was the most disgusting thing I have ever seen, and even typing it out has me wanting to Lysol our entire boat and douse myself in bleach.  Ugh.
2. The heat.  It is summer here.  Which means temperatures are in the high 90's pretty much every day.  The sun rises around 6:00am and it sets around 6:00pm and it is consistently, uncomfortably hot between those hours.  The sun is incredibly strong and shade is your best friend.  There have been days we have not left our boat because simply going outside is just too exhausting.  Another side effect of heat?  Sweat.  I have never been what you would call a "sweaty" person, but down here, it's sweat city and it's gross.  Did I mention we have no air conditioning?  Because we don't.  We have a few dinky, sub-par fans that have a life of their own and do little to quell the heat (read on for more on them).
3. No refrigeration.  We've been dealing with this since the beginning - and we've been doing okay.  But we're starting to crack.  Mostly because of the aforementioned item and secondly because we are so limited by it.  We can't have leftovers and fresh food must be gobbled up quickly or else it goes bad.  We have no cold drinks and things like yogurt, most cheeses, milk (who the heck can have cereal with room temp UHT milk?  We cannot.) and more are just not part of our diet.  If we use 1/2 a can of spinach, the other half goes bad.  If we use 1/2 a can of condensed milk, the rest is wasted.  Thus, we are strongly considering removing ourselves from the "hard core" group of cruisers who lack refrigeration and going to the dark, cold side.
4. Our holding tank.  When you flush your toilet, the contents mysteriously get whisked way into an intricate system of government run pipes and sewers where it eventually gets treated once, twice, three times and more and then, magically, gets reintroduced into the environment all polished and pretty.  And all you had to do to start that process was flush a toilet.  Unfortunately, things aren't that easy for us.  We hold only 12 gallons of "waste" at a time (that's about two days of two people going to the bathroom) - and then we need to do something about it.  At sea we pump it overboard, but in this marina - we obviously can't.  We used to have it pumped out every week and use the marina bathrooms for anything that was not number one.  Even that got tedious because our holding tank gets so full, so fast.  So now what do we do?  We pee in the bathroom sink.  Yep.  I admitted that.  Our holding tank stays empty, we don't have to walk to the marina bathrooms five times a day and it's easier for everyone.  Sorry - I warned you this wasn't going to be pretty.  This is the truth people.  No glossing over.
5. Each other.  Spending 24/7 together takes it's toll on two people and anyone who tells you otherwise is lying.  Just because we're young and in love does not mean we skip down the dock hand-in-hand and have tickle fights every night as we dream of future horizons.  Sorry.  Sometimes, it gets ugly - especially with two head-strong people.  We have disagreements, things get heated, and sometimes - we need to spend a day doing our own thing.  This lifestyle is not for the weak relationships, in fact - we have heard many a story of marriages and engagements falling apart at sea.  If you think of this lifestyle as a way to make your already rocky relationship better, you have another think coming!  Luckily, Scott and I are on firm ground as far as our relationship goes, but I might have thrown a bottle of sunscreen at him once (okay, and an empty coffee cup - relax, it was paper!).
6. Cooking.  I know this is no surprise to any of you, because I am pretty vocal about my dislike of cooking, but someone still has to do it (and yes, Scott cooks too).  Those of you who follow our Facebook page might even notice I have been "kicking it up a notch" by cooking more involved meals.  Again, this doesn't mean I like it.  Cooking in a boat (for me) is difficult at best and always involves breaking a sweat because a) the stove/oven can heat up this place in no time and b) getting 'supplies' usually involves me on all fours, lifting floorboards, cushions and carpets to get at something.  Then I need to do it all again to get the rest of the ingredients.   Is it a deal-breaker?  Not at all.  A pain in the ass sometimes?  You bet.
7. Tight quarters.  Our entire home is probably similar in size to your foyer.  The other day, we saw a private bathroom bigger than our entire living area.  While we love our boat and know that it is perfect for us, there are moments when we feel like we are going to burst at the seams.  Rasmus is by no means "roomy" and living in such tight quarters; especially when we combine #1 with #2 (and occasionally, #5), it can be downright unbearable and it's then that I hop online to Yachtworld.com and dream of boats in the 40 foot range.  Then, reality sinks in and I remember all the work we did to this boat and how much work - and money - a new boat would require and the bubble bursts.  Luckily, those times of desperation are few and far between - but trust me, if you are going to be living on a boat, you too will get size envy from time to time.
8. Our fans.  We currently have these fans and they don't blow, they suck.  Big time.  They were great, we loved them and their three speed on-a-timer convenience - but now, just barely a year old, they are taking on lives of their own.  They must be coerced to work by gently tapping, hitting (and sometimes kicking) *just* the right way while tilted at *just* the right angle, and even then they work intermittently.  They are on the fritz, and when the weather is 89 and sunny every single day, this is not a good time to be fritzing.  We despise these fans.  Do NOT buy them.
9. Feeling stuck.  At the moment, it is hurricane season and we're not moving much.  Scratch that - we're not moving at all, actually.  This irks us greatly because we LOVE to be on the move.  Staying in the same place for a very long time is not our style and we miss the wandering life.  While we enjoy the opportunity to explore this island, we sort of wish we were in cruising mode again.  We think Rasmus is growing roots or at the very least a heck of a lot of barnacles and sea life under her keel - neither of which she likes.  Speaking of, anyone want to come down and scrape them off?  That job also sucks.
10. Sunscreen.  Sunscreen is a necessary evil in my opinion.  You have to wear it, lest you end up looking like Magda a la "Something about Mary", but it makes you feel greasy, slimy and disgusting.  Once you mix a little sweat in there, then you really feel ripe.  Go ahead, scratch your arm and then check under your nails after - I dare you.  You'll see a disgusting brown film underneath them and you're not sure if it's dead skin or dirt.  Yeah, it's gross.  They say the best inventions simply improve existing products and I'll tell you, sunscreen is one thing that is in DIRE need of a re-vamp.  We've tried them all; sprays, grease-free, sensitive skin, generic and top of the line.  They're all equally evil.  Surely there must be a better way of blocking the sun other than being cloaked from head to toe?  A way to douse myself in some sort of invisible shield?  Some sort of body wash that cleans and applies SPF?  Inventors, do you hear my plea?

So there you have it.  I told you I was going to be honest, and I told you it wasn't going to be the rosy view you are used to.  I was also going to mention all the boat work, chores and how often things break - but Scott actually enjoys fixing these things and he lives for "projects" so it doesn't make the list for us, but I think he is the exception (he can fix anything).  So... for all of you who look at us and think we're just lounging around in the sun drinking tropical slushy rum drinks, maybe this will help you to see that, though we are living our dream and living life on our own terms, it ain't always pretty.

Callaloo Soup

While Turkish cuisine will ALWAYS own the #1 spot in my heart for ethnic food, Caribbean is rising quickly on the list...

There are so many spices, so much produce, so many flavors that come alive in Caribbean cooking.  Those of you who follow our Facebook page have seen that I have been spreading my wings in the kitchen and experimenting with cooking Carib-style, and this particular foray was just so dang good I had to share it with you.  Seriously.  Yum.

Here is my (bastardized) recipe for Vegetarian Callaloo Soup.  If I have learned anything about Caribbean cooking, it's that it is very forgiving and if you want to make substitutions, go right ahead!  Play with the spices and just keep taste-testing as you go!

• 2 teaspoons vegetable oil
• 1 large chopped red onion
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons dried (powdered) ginger (can use fresh!)
• 2 teaspoons ground turmeric
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground dried thyme
• 5 cups vegetable stock
• 1 large diced peeled sweet potato
• 3 cups chopped callaloo (can use kale or spinach)
• 4 chopped green bananas (can sub 1 large regular potato)
• 1.5 cups lite coconut milk (can use regular if you wish)
• 1/2 can diced tomato (can use 1 cup fresh)
• 1 cup canned black-eye peas, rinsed and drained
• 2 tablespoons lime juice, or to taste
• Salt/pepper to taste

Directions

1. Heat the vegetable oil in a large pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion, and garlic; cook and stir until the onion has softened and turned translucent, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the ginger, turmeric, coriander, and thyme; cook 1 minute longer.
2. Pour in the vegetable stock, green bananas and sweet potatoes and bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer 5 minutes. Add the callaloo; simmer 5 minutes. Stir in the coconut milk, tomato, black-eye peas, and lime juice. Simmer about 25 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Bon Appetite!

Brittany & Scott

Second Show Sunday

Because Sunday is the day of rest for so many (and stats are famously low on Sundays) I am going to post some blogs from long ago.  I realize some of you might have already read them - but most of you probably haven't.  So grab a cup of coffee, kick back, and enjoy this blast from the past...because sometimes, things are better the second time around...

THURSDAY, OCTOBER 14, 2010

Taking on Water is NOT Fun

I'm not sure what is worse, a hang-on-for-dear-life storm at sea or stepping into water...in your boat.

I'm thinking stepping into water is the winner there.

That is what happened to us last night as we were approaching Buffalo Harbor, NY last night around 9pm.  We were motoring along without a care in the world when suddenly, Scott looked at our tachometer (the thing that reads the RPMs of the engine) and said, "Huh, the tachometer's not working".

Considering this is a brand new engine, I knew this wasn't good.  So I hopped online and a minute later I said, "When that goes out, usually it has something to do with the alternator...".


Ruh-row.

So Scott stepped down below to check out our battery meters and see if anything was amiss down there when he exclaims, "God, why are my socks all..." and before he could say wet, I knew.


"Check the bilge.  Right now...water!"


He did, and it was FULL and I mean OVERFLOWING FULL of water (like,floorboards floating).  If you are a boater, you know how awful this is, if you are not - just suffice it to say it brings your guts into your throat, adrenaline rushes through your veins and your heart, my god, it starts pounding.

The beautiful thing is this:  neither Scott or I went into panic mode.  We just sprung into action, as if this was something that happens all the time.  Like a well rehearsed ballet, if you will.
  

"Check the bilge pump, make sure it's on" I said.  It wasn't.  This was our first problem.  Scott turned it on, turned the engine off and I jumped on the manual bilge pump and started pumping almost as fast as my heart was pounding.

"Check every seacock!"  I said to Scott between desperate pumps.  He tore through the cabin and came back about a minute later. (Seacocks are valves that go through the boat, to the water).

"All dry.  Everything is fine."

This was good.  This meant water was not gushing into the boat.  Gushing would be bad.  Very bad. Phew. Bullet: Dodged.

Once we pumped out all the water and opened up the engine compartment - steam poured our everywhere.  Our cabin turned into sauna city.  The first instant the steam poured out of the engine room we were nervous.  But then we realized it wassteam, not smoke.  Steam is okay.  It was just the bilge water being heated.  Sigh. Smoke would have been very bad.  We considered this another dodged bullet.


We tried to turn the engine. It started...and died.


Crap.


Again.  Same thing.


And there we were - just bobbing around in the dark of night, with the bright lights of Buffalo teasing us in the distance, feeling just a teeny bit helpless.  "There is a solution" Scott thought out loud.


We have a water cooled engine, meaning every time you turn the engine, water is pulled into the boat.  If you turn and turn and turn the engine without getting itrunning you could flood your engine and do permanent damage.  Luckily, we remembered this.  Scott shut off the water intake seacock and we waited.  We took a deep breath and tried it again.

It worked! 

"I'd rather be watching Modern Family"

Hooray for us.  Our boat was full of water and sauna steamy, but by golly it was working and we were heading into port!  Happy days!

Once we got into the harbor - instead of cozying up with hot cocoa and an episode of “Modern Family” (Best. Show. Ever) - we sopped up our little water logged boat for over 2 hours.  Bonus?  We got to clean underneath every. single. floorboard. 5 full buckets later and we were dry.  (Remember that heater I mentioned in the last post - yeah.  Love it.) Plus, all our carpets got a little wash.  


We also determined our problem.  I won't go all into it here and I won't get all sailory-technical (because a lot of you are not sailors), but our bilge pump - the very thing that is supposed to take water OUT of our boat, is siphoning back into the boat (only when we are motoring and the butt of our boat goes down in the water) by some law of physics I care not to go into here.  Hence why we were unable to see it coming in during all our previous checks.  Point for super-sleuths with deductive reasoning: Brittany and Scott!

So here is what we learned:

1. When things go wrong on a boat, they go wrong FAST.  One minute you can be dancing around in the cockpit singing, “In Neeew YoooOOOrk...Concrete jungle where dreams are maAAde of...there’s nothing you can’t doooo....” (annoyingly over-played song by Jay Z. and Alicia Keyes) and the next, you can be pumping your little heart out hoping your boat isn’t sinking.  Crazy dichotomy there.
2. This little problem of ours could have totally been avoided had we been morediligent at checking our bilge.  If I or Scott had check even ONCE in the prior 4 hours, we would have seen that it was filling and would have noticed that our bilge pump wasn’t on and turned it on saving us a few hours of mopping up lake water and allowing us to enjoy more episodes of “Modern Family” (did I already mention that this is the best show ever?).  Even the tiniest, simplest SOP’s must be adhered to.  No questions. But then again, if we didn't flood- we never would have realized that our bilge pump was siphoning water back into the boat.  So, yeah. Moving along...

Thanks to my nifty label maker, we will not forget to check the bilge again! Have you checked your bilge today?

Regardless of all this, Scott and I think we are pretty dang lucky (even if we are sitting in a slip in Buffalo with an engine that might need a new transmission - but that is the next post! ).  First of all, the lake was calm and flat when this occurred.  That was nice.  Second, we took on FRESH water, not salt.  Salt water would have been a REEEEAAL pain in the ass to clean up.  Third, the flooding (as awful as it was) forced us to figure out where the water was coming from and helped us determine the root of the problem (which we didn't know we had) and fourth, we learned, again, that we both totally keep our cool and spring into action (and not panic) when things go wrong.  This can actually be the difference between life and death in a far more serious situation.  We were never in serious danger (once we realized water was only trickling into the boat, and not gushing) and we just kept cool and dealt with it.

Just like we are now dealing with a (possibly) failed transmission. 

But that is for the next post.

Stick with us, kids, never a dull moment!

Love,

Brittany & Scott

Coconut Water

Nothing beats the heat like chilled down coconut water...

This is quickly becoming a tradition whenever we head to the market.  There's a lovely lady there who has coconuts on ice in a cooler that she brings down to the market every morning from her village for thirsty people like us who are craving natures best (and most delicious) cold drink.  She'll hack off the top for you, give you a straw, and for just over $1 USD you have your hands on one of the healthiest beverages you can put in your body.

Love,

Brittany & Scott

Bound for Trinidad

Tomorrow we set off into the horizon and sail for big, bustling Trinidad...

Scott is going to be overseeing the bottom paint job on s/v Diamant when they haul her for three weeks of boat work and, well, I am going along for the ride.  We were going to sail Rasmus down there to do our bottom (it was a great excuse to move, we miss the heck out of cruising and we suspect Rasmus does too) but due to some recent political unrest and the fact that Scott is going to be up to his eyeballs in work with Diamant, we decided against it.  So we're setting sail on the tall ship again!  This time under very different circumstances, but you know what?  We are going to sea and we are headed someplace new and we are so, so, so happy about that.  Staying in one place for so long isn't really our style we don't think.  We should be back in Grenada sometime around the 20th.

We shove off tomorrow evening for the approximately 100 mile run to Trinidad, if you wish to follow us please check the Track Us page on the website!

Love,
Brittany & Scott

Slice of Life in Grenada

When things are slow at the market, what's better than getting your hair done?

I love this picture.  There is so much going on, and it really captures a sense of Caribbean island life; the naturally slower pace of "Island time", the sense of local camaraderie, the simple fact that even though this technique of hair braiding is incredibly laborious and can take hours to complete, that is A-okay.  Patience is a virtue.

When I saw these lovely ladies I just had to freeze this moment, because in my mind's eye, it is quintessential Caribbean and I love it.  I think I am going to go on a little walking photo safari in the next week because everywhere I go there are images like this screaming to get captured.  I'll let you know when I do!

Love,
Brittany & Scott

PS.  Can someone please tell me how it is September already?!