So You Want to Visit the British Virgin Islands?

Ever since 'officially' relocating to the British Virgin Islands (known more casually as the BVI) I have gotten a flurry of emails from friends, family and followers wondering how to make their tropical vacation dreams come true. If you are one such person, this post is for you!

Before I delve into the details (bearing in mind I am no travel agent and a newbie here myself!), a little bit about this place: The British Virgin Islands are located in the Northeastern Caribbean and feature an archipelago of over fifty islands, cays and islets. We are a quick ferry from St. Thomas or St. John, a short (40 minute) plane ride from San Juan, Puerto Rico, and St. Maarten is an overnight sail to the east. If a tropical paradise is what you are seeking, look no further. The weather here is equatorial - hovering around 82 degrees on average -and the sun shines every day with the heat perfectly moderated by the balmy trade winds that blow daily. The beaches are amazing, the water is spectacular, and the outlying islands beautiful. From kiteboarding to sailing, spa-hopping to lounging, there is truly something for everyone here.

Four predominant islands provide the main attraction to the BVI: Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada and Jost Van Dyke. The capital, Road Town, is nestled in the middle of Tortola - the largest island - which is 12 miles long by 3 miles wide. Each island is unique, with distinguishing vibes and attractions. It's no wonder that every week I meet someone who tells me they've been coming to these parts for twenty years and have no inclination to stop or go elsewhere.

If you are curious about visiting this incredible place dubbed "Nature's Little Secret," then read on and I can help point you in the right direction (hint: it's south). There are many links throughout this article to help you navigate further because, as I said, I am no expert and still am new here myself. That said, here's what I know...

When To Come?
November to May is a great window to visit, with various "high peaks" within that time frame (like Christmas, spring break, etc). This is our "winter" and while temperatures are still hot and tropical (just how we like it!) they are comfortable thanks to the moderating trade winds. While hurricane season technically begins in June and continues through November, vacationers still flock here to take advantage of "off season" pricing. June and July see a boost of the "summer travelers" and the BVI Tourist Board are currently working on ways to make this place more enticing to families during this time by offering "kid free" perks and such. The months of August and September are the slowest (and hottest), and also happen to be the most "active" hurricane months. If you travel within the hurricane window there will always be a risk of a storm putting a real damper on your holiday, so trip insurance might be wise. For more information on when to come, read this article on the Best Times to Visit the BVI.

How To Get Here?
We island hopped here all the way from Chicago the first time we came through, the second time we sailed directly from the Bahamas and the third time we came across from St. Maarten. But I am guessing you are looking for a quicker mode of transport. There are a few ways to get here that I know of, with most people coming first to the main island of Tortola, and getting local ferries to shuttle them to the neighboring islands:

1. Fly direct to Beef Island, Tortola: Because our island is small, our airport follows suit and therefore we cannot host large jumbo jets and planes from the US and Europe. Most flights coming in are on small planes or puddle jumpers from neighboring islands with larger facilities (such as Puerto Rico, St. Thomas or St. Maarten). As such, this option is usually the more expensive because it involves an international flight and a small local flight. Because we travel with small kids we have always gone this route, and typically fly Chicago > Puerto Rico > Beef Island. 
2. Fly to St. Thomas and Ferry to Tortola: The cheaper way to travel here is usually to fly direct to St. Thomas and take a quick, 45 minute ferry over to the British Virgin Islands. While this route is a bit more time consuming and cumbersome, it can save quite a bit of money. You must plan your flight accordingly, however, as ferry times can be limiting so make sure you arrive at the airport with plenty of time to get you down to the ferry dock so you can make your ferry and don't end up having to pay for a hotel in St. Thomas. Also note: YOU WILL NEED YOUR PASSPORTS to get on the ferry. Make sure to have them ready.

Where To Stay?
There are SO many options on every island and I cannot possible outline every one. But people who vacation here usually do one of three things:

1. Charter a boat: There is no doubt that these islands are best explored by water. The BVI are one of (if not the) top charter destination in the world and there is good reason for it. Tropical climate, consistent trade winds and an archipelago of beautiful islands that create a relatively protected body of water all combine to make this place a sailor's paradise. If you already know how to sail, you can easily rent a boat for your vacation. As far as budget is concerned, there are options for every level. The most economical is to bareboat (captain the boat yourself), but pricing will be determined by the size and type of vessel you rent (larger boat = more money, catamaran > monohull, etc.). Don't know how to sail but want to travel by sea anyway? Charter a crewed boat. On these charters you will have a captain and, if you choose, a chef on board. The more crew, the more money you will be spending, and these crewed charters can range from the simple to the luxurious. Do your research and make sure to book in advance. Nanny Cay is home to Horizon Yacht Charters and many of our friends work there, so we can vouch for them. Not into sailing and prefer motor yachts? That's okay too! Our good friends run Virgin Traders (also located here in Nanny Cay), offering luxury powerboats ranging from 44-68 feet for both bareboat and crewed charter.
2. Rent a private Villa or Condo: This is a great option for folks more of the land-lubbing variety. The options are endless, and first and foremost you will want to decide what island you want to stay on, bearing in mind day trips to most islands of the BVI are easily arranged. On Tortola, we work closely with Agape Cottages and can vouch that they have great facilities and are located a short walk from one of the islands's most captivating and bustling beach areas (and my personal favorite), Cane Garden Bay. If you go this route, it might be wise to rent a car as well. Our island doesn't have a bus system and taxis can get expensive. Just remember we drive on the left side of the road!
3. Stay at one of the many fine Resorts and Hotels: Once again, there is no shortage of resorts and hotels here to chose from, all offering an array of services from basic to all-inclusive to serve a variety of budgets. From one star efficiency to five star exclusive, the BVI have it all. We live at the Nanny Cay Resort and Marina which boasts a hotel, pool, beach and child-friendly atmosphere - as well as a bustling marina community- and it's a great option for the more budget conscious. Looking for something a little more special? Surfsong Resort, Long Bay Beach Club and Sugarmill Hotel are amazing places that offer five star services and accommodations for the most discerning of traveler. But don't stop there, there are so many options - do some research and find what would be the best fit for your budget, time frame and travel companions.

What To Do?
While some might simply want to unplug and get a healthy dose of R&R during their stay here (and there is no shame in that!), if you are the more active type who isn't prone to lounging - there are plenty of activities to keep you busy! Filling a week with activity to counter the 'chill-out' vibe that is so prevalent here will be no problem. Here are just a few suggestions that will be sure to fill your days and leave you wanting more:

1. Dive into Pardise  - The water here is amazing and the diving and snorkeling excellent. There are a ton of dive companies, and every main island has at least one to chose from. Blue Water Divers is located here at Nanny Cay, and have a great range of trips from night dives to wreck dives.
2. Beach Comb - the beaches here are amazing. Whether you like the bustling vibe of a beach lined with chairs and bars, or prefer your own private paradise - it's all here. Grab a towel, kick off your flip flops and enjoy.
3. Island Hop -  Aside from the five main islands of the BVI, there are about fifty others to explore. Rent a day boat or hop aboard the Rebel Yell Power Catamaran and explore! You can hit the beaches and bars of Jost van Dyke during the day, head for sundowners and the nightly Tarpon show at Saba Rock, explore the magic and mystery of The Baths on Virgin Gorda, or zip over to Cooper Island Beach Club for a killer dinner...the options are endless!
4. Party Hardy - One thing we know how to do here is party. And where do we party? Beach bars. Some of the most famous shoreside haunts in the world are located right here in the BVI. Jump off the legendary Willy T at Norman Island (technically not a beach bar, but a floating bar!), listen to live bands or Foxy himself at Foxy's or swim up to the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost van Dyke, and dance your heart out at Myett's on Tortola. If a rum-fueled party is what you seek, you have struck gold here! If you are really looking to throw down, time your trip with the full moon and party at the infamous Bomba Shack or any number of full moon parties these islands offer. Oh, and don't forget to sample our famous local drink - the Painkiller, it's delicious. But be careful, mixers are more expensive than rum here so they pack a real punch!
5. Water Sports - It's all about the water, and here - fun on the water is never far. You can learn to Kiteboard in Virgin Gorda, rent a paddle board in Cane Garden Bay, sail a Hobie Cat at the Bitter End and, if conditions are right, you can even catch a world class surfing wave here! Of course the snorkeling is awesome just about everywhere, so don't forget the mask and snorkel and jump in to have your mind blown!
6. Learn to Sail - Dreaming of sailing off into the sunset but don't quite know how to sail yet? Minor detail! Why not learn to sail while you are here? There are a number of great sailing schools that offer anywhere from one day to week long courses. Tortola Sailing School offers a whole host of American Sailing Association accredited courses, as does the Rob Swain Sailing School (which is located right here at Nanny Cay) - request my bad-ass friend, Keanna, as an instructor! If you are a woman and would prefer to learn in the company of other females, then the Sistership Sailing School (also at Nanny Cay!) is for you! Warning: Learning to sail in paradise has long-lasting side effects and you might just sell it all and end up on a boat like we did!
7. Partake in a Local Event or Festival - Islanders like to have a good time, and the BVI are no exception. Enjoying a local event is a great and unique way to experience a place. There are a ton of local festivals, events and regattas to enjoy - check out the schedule and see if there are any that coincide with your visit, or that you'd like to plan your trip around!
8. Hike the Hills - If you want to stretch your legs and get some exercise here, hiking is a great way to do it. Tortola, the largest of all the islands, has some great hikes - most of which are on or around the beautiful Sage Mountain National Park. But you can find a trail to explore on most any island.
9. Day Sail - If you are vacationing on land, you *MUST* book a day, or several days, to get out on the water and see some of the other islands. A great way to do this is by booking a day sail and (*cough cough*)... and we just so happen to run the #1 Day Sail Company in the BVI, Aristocat Charters. Our trips are full day, include three stops and are all inclusive... soda, beer, rum punch and a freshly prepared (and very delicious) buffet lunch are all included, as are the snorkel equipment and paddleboards. Did I mention we have the best crew in the BVI as well? Because we do! Bring a towel and some sunscreen, and be prepared to have the best day of your BVI vacation with us!
10. Rest and Relaxation - Sometimes, people come to our neck of the woods to unwind and do nothing. Pamper yourself at one of the many full-service spas here and enjoy the many amenities of the fabulous resorts. If lounging by the pool with that book you've been meaning to read is all you want to do while you are here, then do it. Park yourself somewhere with a beautiful view, feel gentle breeze on your skin, bask with the sun on your skin and simply relax. You deserve it.

I hope this is helpful for those of you considering the BVI for your next vacation. We absolutely love living here and sharing this place with others is a pleasure, so we hope to see you down here sooner than later! Remember, the lower the latitude, the better the attitude...

Other resources:
BVI Tourism
Ultimate BVI
BVI Newbie
Escape BVI
BVI Tour Center

Why We Chose to Live in the British Virgin Islands

"I could see us living here." I muttered those six words to Scott in a wistful haze while driving along the main road here, which might just be one of the most scenic roads in the British Virgin Islands. As we rambled along the waterside with the windows down; warm breeze in our hair and hot sun on our faces, I gazed out at the cyan horizon, dreamy islands dotting my periphery, and imagined what it might be like to call this place "home". All my life I have wanted to live on a island - and in my travels I have always gravitated towards small, expat communities in rustic towns; islands in their own right...I can't put my finger on why this is - but I know that I find comfort in cultural diversity, eccentric characters, flexible rules and tight-knit community. This was in 2013 and Scott and I had been up and down the windward and leeward island chain twice before this particular stopover, visiting almost all islands in between, but for the first time since we left in 2010 I got a hankering that putting down some roots might be a good idea. It was the first place that felt kind of like home.

Cruising as a lifestyle was wonderful in many ways (ways which are well documented on this blog), but there were elements of it that were draining on us. For one, money was becoming an issue. Being a gypsy is wonderful for the soul, but tough on the pocketbook. Then there was the anxiety of always being at the mercy of mother nature, a stress that was a very regular and daily thing. Maintaining our boat - particularly with a baby on board - was proving difficult to stay on top of...and, finally, sailing had become more of a chore - a means to get from one place to another - than a pleasure. Then again, there were so many elements that we still loved about the cruising lifestyle; island culture, being at anchor, the constant ebb and flow of new and interesting people in our lives, a strong sense of community and belonging, and a feeling of living more simply while getting back to nature... We weren't ready to give it up and "swallow the anchor" as it were, but we needed a change. For these reasons (and others) we decided to call the British Virgin Islands home.

But why *these* particular islands? Well, finding a 'home' is as subjective as finding a mate, but here's why we chose it:

1) They are (almost) perfectly located. First and foremost, this body of water is very protected. We don't need to worry about wind and waves nearly as much as we have had to in other places. Then there is the fact that we can cruise to any number of islands and drop our anchor in a host of beautiful bays in a matter of hours. Here in the British Virgin Islands (BVI's), there are four main islands (Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada and Jost Van Dyke) to explore, but aside from those - there are fifty other tiny islands that make up this chain. Not to mention that the US Virgin Islands and the Spanish Virgin Islands - all amazing in their own right - are a simple day sail away. I say they are "almost" perfect because, as with all things, their convenience comes at a price - and that price is the fact that we lie smack-dab in the middle of the hurricane belt. Not a big issue for vacationers, but considering we now own three boats here - it's something that adds a little yin to the yang.

2) Best sailing ever. There's a reason thousands upon thousands of people flock here every year to come and sail. This place offers some of the best sailing on the planet, with consistent strong trade winds and a body of water that is protected from large waves and ocean swell, and it is awesome. You can sail for the sake of sailing here, and no matter what direction the wind is blowing - there is always somewhere beautiful to go and drop anchor. Aside from that, there's a pretty healthy racing community - from lasers to mega yachts - and there's no shortage of cruiser raft ups and regattas to get your fix. Living on a boat here is a real bonus - when we get a few days off in a row, we can move house and enjoy life on the hook for a few days.

3) Great industry. Wherever we settled, we knew we needed to work and we wanted to be in a place rife with opportunity. The fact that Scott is a USCG licensed Captain combined with the fact that the BVI's are home to one of the most bustling charter industries in the world made this a no-brainer. Then, opportunity knocked in the form of a business for sale...Scott and I took an incredible risk and decided to go for it - and the rest is history. Our day charter business was run by great people before us, and - touch wood - we have taken the torch and even kicked it up a notch. We are currently the #1 Day Sail company in the BVI's! Scott's been working like a dog (18 hour days, no joke) but in a year or so we hope to have streamlined our systems so that the work/life balance is more realistic.

4)Developed, but too developed. You can get a great steak here, find a solid five star hotel, get pampered at a top tier spa, see a concert, and get the latest Roxy bikini...but you still feel like you're living on a sleepy island You will not see a single big box store on these roads, no fast food restaurant chains spoil our street views, and - despite the fact that this is a very popular tourist destination and giant cruise ships come into port daily - the BVI's manage to maintain a very authentic, very laid back island vibe. I love that I can go to a surf shop and supplement my wardrobe, but then head up to town and get bbq chicken out of bus on the side of the road. While it is illegal to talk on the phone while driving here, it's perfectly legal to have a beer. Only in the islands does this make perfect sense and, truth be told, I love it. We live life in the slow lane here, the vibe is much more relaxed than back at home, which I think is a good thing. Island time.

5) They don't make it easy to live and work here. So this is kind of a blessing and a curse, but - for us - more of a blessing. The BVI's really run you through the ringer if you plan to live and work here. The amount of paperwork, bureaucracy, interviews and patience you need to get through it all is INCREDIBLE. Our saving grace was the fact that we bought an existing business and (we are told) that made our process slightly easier. If you want to start a business from scratch here? Even harder (and riskier). But if you are patient and mental enough to deal with the difficulties of getting to the finish line - it's pretty sweet. For example, our day charter company is one of three on this island. Three! Competition is there, which is great, but the market is not over-saturated so everyone gets a piece of the pie here. At least it feels that way.

6) So. Many. Families. Children are everywhere! Local kids, expat kids and tourists alike! And where there are children, there are schools, daycares and activity centers. Don't get me wrong, they might not be the type you are used to in the United States or Europe (remember, we are still living on an 'authentic' island here), but either way, there's no shortage of play groups, parks and kiddos for our girls to enjoy. It's lovely and great to be a part of an island community that is so family-centric and while there might not be *as* many organized groups and play areas as there are back stateside, there's no shortage of sand, water and sun - and what more could a child want than that?

7) Good school options. This sort of goes hand in had with #6, but being that we have relocated here for the next five years or more, good schools were something we had to consider. There are several options for private schooling - a Montessori School and an International School - which is what we are leaning towards for our girls. Of course these two options come at a pretty steep price, but we feel that when it comes to laying the foundation for our girls' educations, we need to consider it. While many are curious about home-schooling, I have decided that is not for me at this juncture. If Scott and I were still cruising and if I had another full-time parent with me to give me the mental breaks I need (and want!) then it would be a different story. But as it stands right now, I am a solo parent almost every single day from dawn to dusk and I have my own passions and projects I'd like to pursue right now. So off to school they will go.

8) It's truly paradise. This past summer while on a short break to Big Sur, California (put it on the bucket list if you've never been!) I had a sort of epiphany and determined that living in a visually spectacular place was essential for my well being. I feel most alive, inspired and grateful in habitats where the world fans it's peacock feathers full tilt - and this place is one of them. These islands are some of the most beautiful we have ever been to. The water, the flora, the anchorages, the ridge roads, the beaches, the sleepy villages...it's lovely. Yes, it can be a little crowded from time to time with cruise ship patrons and charter guests, but I have found that I love the buzz and excitement created by the tourists...these folks act as a constant reminder of why I am so lucky to live here and help me to live in the present. Not to mention the fact that once you know your way around, there are plenty of places to retreat here if you want to get off the beaten path. The snorkeling, the diving, the sea life and the beaches - they are all magnificent. Every day I am inspired, every day I am grateful, every day I breath in the beauty with my eyes, heart and spirit and I love it. Will it get old? Possibly. But I doubt it.

9) The Nanny Cay Marina. Okay, we haven't been to every marina in the Caribbean, but we've been to a lot of them and - let me tell you - this one is THE BEST. I honestly don't think we would have chosen to settle here if not for this marina, because it is pretty much the perfect place to live-aboard with kids. I could go on and on why I love it here so much, but first and foremost, it's a one stop shop and offers everything you need: boat yard, grocery store, two restaurants, a couple surf shops, dive shop, proper coffee shop, yacht chandlery, electronics store, a killer beach bar and more! You really don't have to leave to cover all your bases and for that reason, many of us who live here refer to it as "the compound" or "the village". As if that's not enough, there's a beautiful pool and a great little beach where our girls love to play. There is a resort on site so we get a nice mix of locals and tourists passing through, and this place is also home to Horizon Yacht Charters, one of the premier term charter companies on island. All of that is fantastic, no doubt...but the number one reason I love it so much here is the sense of community. This is not only a transient marina, but a place where people live year-round, and there's always a great buzz and 'village mentality' here. We cannot walk ten feet here without greeting someone we know. Our girls run the docks, giving fist bumps and hugs to all the employees; they belly up to the beach bar and ask for juice from their favorite bartender, Deborah, and they are adored by many. It's wonderful. I could probably write a whole blog post on this place but I'll leave it at that for now. It's awesome. I love it.

***

So there you have it. Our reasons for settling here in the BVI and, so far, we have zero regrets. It's still early of course, but we truly love our adopted home. Our "plan" is to live here for another five to seven years, and by then we hope to have enough money in the bank in order to sustain more long-term, far-flung sailing (oh, yes, we're not done with cruising!) Our girls will be around ten and eight by then, which we think would be great ages to take them exploring further afield...then again, that's a long ways away so at the moment, we live, we work, and we enjoy. Life is good!

I Smell a Rat, Part Two: The Capture

(To read the beginning of this story whereby we discovered we had a rat, read Part One)

I had just drifted off to a slumber at the wee hour of 3am when I heard a sort of frantic scrambling sound coming from our walk-thru area. I opened my eyes and laid still. All was quiet except for the babbling brook and chirping birds of the "rainforest" setting on Isla's sound machine. Then, a few seconds later, more frantic scrambling. "What the..?" I thought to myself. And then, no sooner did I have that thought when I realized with a genuine mix of panic, horror and excitement that: WE GOT THE RAT! I sprung up in bed. "Scott!!" I exclaimed in a loud whisper, shaking him by the arm a little more aggressively than one enjoys while still deep in sleep. The sound of more frantic flailing punctuated my urgency. "Oh my god!! Get up now!!" I shook him a little more. And finally, I spelled it out for him, "We. got. the. rat!!"

Scott is not one to wake up instantly (that sort of "at alert" type of waking is reserved for us mother's I think) and after some grumbling and mumbling, he sat up. "Listen...." I said, indicating to lay still and pay attention. We did. Quiet. And then...the unmistakable sound of a captured critter trying to break free. GAH!!! Scott looked at me with saucer-wide eyes and then got down from our bunk. There are a couple things to note about the flailing we were hearing: The first was that the rat was clearly still alive which we hadn't really bargained for. The second, was that - judging from the thumps and thuds caused by his body weight - we were dealing with a rat of substance. But that was neither here nor there at this point, the important thing was that we had him. But now what?

"Oh my god.." I whispered to Scott, careful not to wake Isla who was sleeping not five feet away from us, and not two feet away from the trapped rat. "What if we've only got his tail or his foot in the trap?" My eyes grew wide, "What if he get's away!?! For the love of God we CANNOT LET HIM GET AWAY!" Scott got up and slowly tiptoed into the walk thru area. I was crouched on our bed in the aft cabin, with a clear view into the hall, watching with eager anticipation. "What should I do?" Scott whispered back at me. "I don't want to open this door, scare him and have him break free from the trap..." he trailed off and went to get his head torch in the nav station. More frantic fish-out-of-water-style flailing ensued. Isla, somehow, was still out cold during this ordeal. I prayed that she didn't wake up. No amount of therapy could erase what was about to go down from an impressionable three year old mind.

Scott returned to the walk thru with his head torch glowing red, wielding a small frying pan. "What the hell is that for?" I whispered. He quickly motioned for me to be quiet, and then slowly opened the garbage locker. The bin was clearly blocking the view, and I saw him contort a few ways to try and get a good look. He then tenderly closed the door, and disappeared back into the galley area, taking the red glow with him. More thrashing and suddenly, a new sound...A sort of wheezing whine that *almost* sounded like a faint baby cry. I was disturbed.

The red glow and Scott, returned again. This time with an even bigger frying pan and a giant workman's glove. "Jesus Christ, Scott!" I spat. "What the hell!?! How big is this thing?" He turned to me with a comical smirk and with an uneasy chuckle replied, "It's not a field mouse." I could not stop muttering "ohmygod.ohmygod.ohmygod" on repeat, hugging my legs in the fetal position out of sheer disgust. Scott told me to give it a rest and turned back to the cupboard. More thrashing. More wheezing. Surely this thing would die soon?! And why the hell was he alive anyway!?! Weren't traps meant to kill rodents?!?!

Scott opened the cubby again, looked around some more. And paused. He shut the cubby and returned to the aft cabin. He took the head lamp of like a soldier would take off his helmet from a recon mission. He paused. "The rat is substantial" he started, "My worry is that he's going to get free if I scare him too much. He's thrashing around pretty good in there. I'm not sure what to do." If there is one thing that I am famous for in our duo it is the fact that, more often than not, I think very fast on my feet and come up with great solutions in a pinch. "Grab the glue trap in the shoe cubby" I told him. "Slide it next to the rat. Next time he thrashes, he'll land on that and then we'll know we've got him by at least two ways. Surely he won't get free then." "Good thinking," he replied. He replaced his head lamp, grabbed the trap and went back to ground zero.

The cubby was opened, yet again. More scrambling. More eerie crying. Scott slid the glue trap into the bottom of the locker like it was infected with ebola, recoiled and shut the door. Visible sighs all around. More thrashing and then, quiet. Scott grabbed our little Olympus tough camera from the nav station, opened the door again, stuck his arm in, took a few pics, checked them and, once again, shut the door. He started back toward me again with a smile. "He's on the glue trap. Wanna see?" He wore a twisted smirk. Of course I didn't want to see, but just as one must gawk at an accident on the highway, so must I look at the rat that has been our roommate for God knows how long. "Ugh. Okay" I replied. Scott handed me the camera but not before warning, "He's....substantial." I looked at the pictures and, yes, he was bigger than we thought (but not city alley style) and utterly disgusting and all of that, but I actually felt sorry for the damn thing all helpless, scared and probably hurting in there. I closed my eyes and shook my head in an attempt to erase the images from my mind and get back to business. Pity or no pity, I wanted him dead and gone as quickly as possible.

"Now what do we do?" Scott looked at me hopefully. I was on again. I pondered our next steps for  a moment. "We need to drown him. We can't let him suffer like this." I said, my rat sympathy shining through. "Okay," Scott started. "But how do we do that?" I thought some more. "What if we just throw all that crap into the ocean?" Scott considered this for a second. "It'll probably float with the clamp and especially the glue trap..." he trailed off. He was right. And, anyway, as desperate of a time as this was - it certainly didn't warrant us littering in the ocean. My eyes squinted as I thought some more and then, a lightbulb. "I've got it!" I said with the excitement of a child who's just solved a puzzle. "Take the garbage bag out of the trash bin, put the rat - traps and all - in there. Then we'll take it off the boat and fill the bin with water from the hose." "Good idea!" Scott was happy we finally had a solution. By the looks on our faces and tones of our voices you'd never guess we were plotting to commit murder. By now it was about 4am. This ordeal took every minute of an hour.

Scott went back to the walk thru where Isla was still sleeping soundly, but this time I followed. Scott opened the cubby and took out the garbage bin. I grabbed the garbage bag and brought it on deck. "We'll throw him away in here when he's dead" I whispered. Scott nodded in agreement as he donned the hefty work glove. With a few swift movements, Scott had the rat in the bottom of the bin and we were on deck high-fiving that ratty was officially no longer in our boat. But there was little time for celebration, we still had work to do. The poor rat was still alive, after all.  We brought the bin off the boat and over by the hose. "I feel so bad for him," I said. "Maybe we can set him free far, far away?" "Absolutely not," Scott said. "He might remember where we live and anyway, he's probably dying. Best to put him out of his misery." I agreed, but it was terrible to see an animal suffer and know we were the cause of it. Even though he was a rat and even though I hated him for eating my most favorite pair of shoes, I felt bad for the little guy.

Scott grabbed the hose. The rat had already slowed his thrashing down and I like to think he sensed the end was near. "Turn it on" Scott said firmly. I did. The night was eerie still. There was not a sound to be heard except that of the water slowly filling the plastic bin. The lights of the dock cast a yellow tinge all around us and after the tub was about 1/2 way full, Scott signaled to turn it off. I walked over to see our rat squirm a bit, take what appeared to be three deep, big gulps, and then - everything stopped. He was gone. I shuddered in the night's clammy chill when it dawned on me that I'd never use the idiom "like a drowned rat" quite the same ever again.

We drained the water and Scott put him into the trash bin to throw out at the dumpster. I washed out the garbage can, disinfected it with Lysol and when Scott returned, we retired back into the boat to bed. But not after excitedly recounting the details of the last hour like a couple of teens recounting a good senior prank.

We slept a little easier that night.

But now I can't help but lay awake and wonder: Was he alone?

Boat life, I tell you, never a dull moment.

* Those of you interested, our rat was trapped using the T-Rex Rat Trap with a glob of peanut butter and a chunk of cured meat (sausage) on the trigger.

The Importance of Getting off the Dock and out of my Comfort Zone

I had no idea how much I missed floating free on the water. Getting "off the dock" is a phrase anyone who owns a boat is familiar with. The dock, with all it's amenities, conveniences and plusses, comes with a host of negatives - not the least of which is tethering your boat to shore. When you are "on the dock" you are, presumably, not "out there" (insert outstretched arms indicating the great wide open). So, when Scott got three day's off in a row and asked if I wanted to sail over to Norman Island and anchor out for the night, I cannot even believe I thought twice.

Turns out, I had no idea what I needed.

When you live on a boat in a marina, particularly with toddlers, sometimes anything that requires a little more of your already depleted energy (like untying dock lines, prepping the boat for sailing, and related things) seems like too much. I mean, we're so happy here. We have a little routine, the girls have fun every day...Why did we need to leave? "Umm....I don't know...." I answered lazily when Scott posed the question of a day sail. "Seems like it would be a lot of work for just one night out?" I added in a sort of question/statement. Scott is familiar with this not-so-great side of me. The side that, instead of leaping in head first with an excited, "Sure!" sits back and thinks about all the 'what if's'; making a list of reasons why 'xyz' is actually not a good idea. It's not one of my better traits. I could totally justify my line of thinking: Why rock the boat when we were so comfy and happy right where we were? No sooner had I had that thought when it dawned on me that this was precisely why we needed to go. Because - and pardon the cliche - life happens outside the comfort zone. If I've learned anything, I've learned that.

"Let's go" Scott said.

Pushing my reluctance aside once and for all I replied with a firm, "Okay."

***

It was a perfect sailing day, as it so often is down here. The breeze was fresh, the waves gentle, and the sun beaming. I cannot adequately explain how or why it happens, but anyone who loves sailing knows the feeling: once we raised the sails and shut off the engine, I felt my heart and soul lighten. Being out on the water, sailing with my girls in this incredible paradise we are so lucky to call 'home' just about made me burst with gratitude. Isla took her spot on the bow, standing quietly and keeping watch. She has always been an old soul and sailing with her is a pleasure, she just takes it all in as she gazes at the water in silence, looking for turtles and dolphins and anything else that might catch her imagination. I took my seat next to her on the cabin top; wind ripping through my hair, sun warming up my skin and thought to myself, "this is bliss". I turned around to Scott who was driving. "Thank you," I said. "I totally needed this." He smiled, the twins seated contentedly next to him snacking on popcorn. We had a near-perfect sail with all the girls happily awake, enjoying the scenery and sitting on deck with me, giggling and waving to boats on the horizon.

We grabbed a mooring ball at the Bight at Norman Island, put the girls down for a nap, and I came back on deck to take in our surroundings. It was, literally and metaphorically, a breath of fresh air. Being surrounded by water instead of other boats and docks was bliss. Just as catching the wind in your sails does something to lighten your soul, so does simply floating peacefully at anchor. The world is quieter. The boat feels bigger. Your senses perk up. You breathe a little easier. It is instantly soothing and relaxing and creates a sort of paradigm shift in the mind where you feel incredibly free. Scott got to doing a few boat chores before laying down for a nap, while I grabbed my book and basked in the cockpit. It felt positively wonderful to be in the breeze, something that is sorely lacking on our buttoned-up boat in the marina. At the dock we spend precious little time in our beloved cockpit. For one, it's so hot and secondly, being so close to our neighbors makes relaxing in the cockpit slightly awkward. At anchor? Different story. Our cockpit is our living room and I absolutely love it. I pushed open all our hatches, unzipped our dodger window, and aired out the boat with sunshine and fresh breeze.

The girls woke up from their naps and played happily on deck. Scott and Isla inflated our Airis Paddle Boards and we loaded the kids up - me with the twins, Scott with Isla - and paddled ashore to the beautiful beach. Sadly, we don't have any photos of this excursion because I didn't want to take my good camera on the paddle board, but we rowed to the beach where the girls played happily in the sand and Scott and I enjoyed some afternoon cocktails. We met up with some blog followers and island friends that work on Norman, lingering beach side until the sun started slipping down the horizon and it was time to head home for dinner and bed.

***

The next morning, the girls were up with the sun and ready to play on deck again. Giggles, squeals of joy and belly laughs ensued and, again, I thanked Scott for pushing me outside my comfort zone. Work was calling, however, and after a morning paddle and beach excursion, we needed to set our sails for home. We sailed back in a building breeze; grateful, rested and rejuvenated from our 'mini-vacation' off the dock. I didn't know it at the time, but I needed that little time away so very badly. It would have been so easy for me to convince Scott to stay back and pass on this opportunity. And it would have been fine. We would have had a nice day. We would have had fun. But it would not have re-charged my batteries, filled me to the brim with gratitude, and inspired me quite like our trip to Norman did. Nope. Getting out of my comfort zone was imperative and refreshing. It's a lesson that I, no doubt, will have to learn over and over again, but next time I won't need nearly as much convincing. I am sure of that.

“Comfort is your biggest trap and coming out of comfort zone your biggest challenge.” 

- Manoj Arora

Isla took her spot here and sat here for the entire 1.5 hour sail over.

Luckily it was calm enough that the girls could explore on deck underway.

Me and my girls. Mira was not thrilled at this point, but you can't win em all, right?

Pouty face.

Isla and Haven sat up here most of the way.

Sailing sisters.

Sisters, sharing a secret and a giggle, as they should.

We're working a lot on sharing these days. I was happy to catch this moment.

View from the aft deck.

Mira, our little steadfast observer.

My happy little wild haired Fraggle.

Sailing = snacking.

Daddy and Mira

Always polishing. It's impossible to stay on top of. Sigh.

Paddle board time!

Mira, testing out her balance.

The girls are SO happy climbing and playing on deck.

Daddy kisses

Our little peanut.

Watching these two interact is amazing. Being a mom to twins is definitely a gift.

All three of our little treasures!! This was unposed - they just did this on their own. Love.

If you were wondering if our kids had any personality...

Happy and free.

Her favorite spot to climb up to.

Sunrise exploration.

Good morning sun!

Sailing home. Thoughtful and contemplative.

Haven, driving with daddy.

All these photos are taken with my Canon EOS Rebel T5 EF-S 18-55mm IS II Digital SLR with the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens (50mm) or Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens (wide angle) lenses. I hope you enjoy them as much as I enjoyed taking them!

An Afternoon Away in Cane Garden Bay

We don't get out much these days. And by "out" I mean out of this marina, which I now affectionately refer to as "the village" (after the movie by the same name). With Scott putting in twelve-plus hour days, seven days a week, and me being on my own with the girls most of that time - "unsupported" outings beyond the gates of Nanny Cay are, more often than not, more trouble than they are worth. When Scott got a rare day off, however, we decided on an afternoon to one of our favorite places here on Tortola (and quite possibly the one where we hatched the idea to base ourselves here over rum drinks and a killer sunset), Cane Garden Bay.

The last time we were here I was laying on our paddle board at the shoreline while Isla played in the sand at my feet, when a pretty woman strolling along the beach approached us. I noticed her earlier, walking along the water, intermittently digging her toes through sand as if she was doing some sort of beach-combing. "Have you ever heard of coquinas?" She gently asked Isla. I sat up and we replied we had not. The woman, who I later learned was Liza, then proceeded to dig her foot in the wet, soft sand near the water's edge, and picked up a small clam-like shell. "This is a coquina" she told us. She dropped it back to the sand at which point it quickly burrowed out of sight. Both Isla and I were mesmerized. "Cane Garden Bay is the only beach in the BVI's where I have found them" she said. She then told us of her childhood in Florida where she'd dig for coquinas for hours, collecting them by the bucketful, a hobby that has continued into adulthood. She pointed out her boat and told me she was a fellow cruiser, and we've been friends ever since.

Not only did I gain a new friend that day, but a new beach hobby. Digging for coquinas at Cane Garden Bay is pretty much what we do now at Cane Garden Bay. And, believe me, it's addicting in a therapeutic, calming sort of way. Excavating at the waterline, unearthing one, and scooping it up before either a) a wave gently laps it away or b) it buries itself further into the sand over and over and over again is quite the 'thrill'. Fun for the whole family. So the day that we escaped Nanny Cay and hit up "Cane" (as it is known by locals) was no different. The surf was 'up' because a north swell had been running the few days prior making what is usually a very calm and serene beach more or less un-swimmable for toddlers but decent for coquina hunting. Accompanied by our friends, the Sunkissed Soeters, we hit the beach. The kids lined the surf, digging in the sand and plopping coquinas into buckets while the parents indulged in a little day drinking. More than a couple times the kids were drenched by a rogue breaking wave, but it didn't deter them enough to stop unearthing the clammy treasures.

We chatted with fellow beach goers. Witnessed a beautiful beach wedding. Collected (and set free!) bucket loads of coquinas and ended the day with a casual beach-side dinner with our friends to celebrate a very successful start to our new business. With full bellies we taxied home salty, sandy and happy from a day of fun in the sun. As the high season winds down and Scott and I begin to get a better handle on what sort of staff we need and improve our time management, we hope to have more family outings like this in the future. For now, we'll take 'em when we get 'em.

First order of business, refreshments! 

Stormer and Isla busy digging for coquinas.

Luuck and baby Rio

Mira comes over to check out a coquina. 

Isla couldn't get enough. Here's also a shot of a wave coming in. Usually this bay is flat calm.

The coquina! 

Adding some sand to the bucket to make a "home" for their coquinas. 

Daddy and Mira

Haven loves nothing more than tea parties on the beach!

The kids got front row for the sunset show, always a main event at CGB.

It never disappoints here. 

Two buddies, taking it in. And Isla seemingly getting a little fresh.

These two are "monkey see, monkey do" - one twin squats to pee, the other mimics (neither did, fyi)

Isla playing as the sun begins to set.

The celebration group. Fun day for all!